How do you choose the right serum for your age? Does it even matter? Skin is skin. But as it gets older, it starts to face different challenges. Wrinkles. Dark spots. Dryness.
That serum you may have loved in your 20s may not cut it anymore now you’re in your 40s. Or you may be scrolling through IG and come up a skincare brand for 50+ women who promises fast results and you’re wondering if it has something other bands don’t. Should you switch?
With the gazillion of serums on the market, making the right choice is a minefield. Worry not. I’m here to help. Here’s the complete guide on how to choose the right serum for your age. But first:
What Are Serums?
Skincare superheroes that are packed with active ingredients, such as antioxidants and skin lighteners.
Serums contain a much higher concentration of these goodies than moisturizers. Their texture is much lighter, too, so they penetrate more easily into the skin. That makes serums work better and faster than any other skincare products out there.
Basically, you’d be mad not to use one.
Should You Choose A Serum Based On Your Age?
Not really. Ok, I hear your complaints. This is an article on how to choose the right serum for your age and now I’m telling you that you don’t need to choose a serum based on your age? “Make your mind up, Gio!,” I hear you say.
Here’s the thing: you should not choose a serum ONLY based on your age. You should choose a serum based on your skin type and needs.
It just so happens that your skin type and needs can change as you get older. You need to know what to expect and how to address these concerns once they appear on your skin.
So here’s how to use this guide: look at the decade you’re in and ask yourself, am I experiencing this issue at this time? If so, go ahead and use one of the serums in your category. If not, great. Keep doing what you’re doing.
Best Serums For Your 20s: Antioxidants For Prevention
If you’re still in your 20s, your skin looks awesome. Soft, supple, glowy. What the heck do you need a serum for?
Prevention.
Your skin isn’t showing it yet, but sun damage, pollution, an unbalanced diet and plenty of other things are inflicting damage to it every day. If you don’t do something about it now, those wrinkles will turn up sooner than you think.
Enter antioxidants. They fight the free radicals that cause wrinkles and dark spots before they can wreak their damage There are plenty of antioxidants you can use, including Vitamin C, Vitamin E, ferulic acid, resveratrol, green tea…
Which one is better? None. Different types of antioxidants fight different types of free radicals. The more you add to your skincare routine, the better you’ll age. Said that, I am partial to 15% L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), 1% Vitamin E, and 0.5% ferulic acid.
Why? A study conducted by Duke University has found that this combination “provides meaningful synergistic protection against oxidative stress in skin and should be useful for protection against photoaging and skin cancer.”
BEST PICKS:
- Drunk Elephant C-Firma Day ($78.00): It contains the same active combination, 15% L-Ascorbic Acid, 1% Vitamin E, and 0.5% Ferulic Acid. Plus a big dollop of marula oil that makes the texture thicker and sticker. It’s also more hydrating, so if you have dry skin, it’s a good pick for you. Available at Boots, Cult Beauty, and SpaceNK.
- Paula’s Choice Resist Ultra-Light Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum ($38.00): This lightweight, silicone-based serum is infused with a wide variety of antioxidants (including Vitamin C, Vitamin E, and Quercetin) to prevent premature wrinkles. Plus, Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and skin-soothers to reduce irritations. Available at Dermstore, Paula’s Choice, Selfridges, and Sephora.
- The Ordinary Resveratrol 3% + Ferulic Acid 3% (£5.50): This simple serum contains two of the most powerful, yet underused, antioxidants in skincare. You already know what resveratrol does. Ferulic Acid destroys THREE types of free radicals and boosts the effectiveness of sunscreen. If they’re missing from your skincare routine, this is a good way to supplement. Available at Beauty Bay, Boots, Cult Beauty, Sephora, The Ordinary, and Ulta.
Related: Common Antioxidants Found In Skincare Products
Want to get the most out of your skincare products? Click on the image below to subscribe to my newsletter and receive the “How To Combine Actives Like A Pro” cheatsheet.
Best Serums For Your 30s: Retinol For Wrinkle-Fighting
Fine lines are now starting to appear, especially around your eyes. Yes, already. Antioxidants help you prevent them, but they can get rid of them.
There’s only one family of actives that can reduce the damage: retinoids. They’re forms of vitamin A, the gold standard for treating antiaging. They reduce the fine lines and wrinkles you already have and prevent new ones from forming. How?
- They fight the free radicals that cause wrinkles
- They stimulate collagen production to firm skin
- They accelerate cellular turnover, helping skin renew itself faster
Common types found in skincare products include retinol and retinal. Derivatives like Granactive Retinoids are said to work just as well (from the manufacturers!). I’m still waiting for proof of that, so I only recommend retinol and retinal. If you want something stronger, you need to go prescription with Tretinoin.
The catch? Retinoids can be irritating if you’ve never used them before. Start with small concentrations once or twice a week and build it up from there.
BEST PICKS:
- MaeLove Moonlight Retinal Super Serum ($39.95): This retinal serum has a niacinamide + ceramide base to counteract the potential dryness and irritation from retinaldehyde. It also has fragrant oils that could irritate sensitive skin. But if your skin doesn’t react badly to them, it’s an effective and affordable option to consider. Available at MaeLove.
- Skinceuticals Retinol 0.3 Night Cream ($62.00): This cream contains only 0.3% retinol but it packs an anti-aging punch. It comes in a moisturising base, but you need to use a separate moisturiser to counteract the dryness of retinol. Available at Dermstore and Skinceuticals.
- Paula’s Choice 1% Retinol Booster ($52.00): This high-strength 1% retinol booster has a moisturising base and plenty of skin-soothers to counteract the irritating effects of retinol. Use it on its own for maximum effect or dilute it with moisturiser if it’s too harsh for you. Available at Cult Beauty, Net-A-Porter, Paula’s Choice and SpaceNK.
Related: The Complete Guide To Retinol: What It Is, What It Does & How To Use It
Best Serums For Your 40s: Copper Peptides
This is the decade where everything starts to slow down, little by little. Skin is starting to lose its luster. It’s duller, drier and more uneven than it was before. What do you do about it?
I’m not a huge fan of peptides. I don’t care what brands and influencers tell you. There’s just not enough proof from independent research showing they work. The exception? Copper peptides.
Copper peptides are carrier peptides, a.k.a. messengers that tell your skin how to behave. Dr. Shereene Idriss, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Idriss Dermatology in New York, says “They work as signals telling our skin to produce more collagen where we need it the most. Carrier peptides, like copper peptides, deliver trace minerals to the skin to boost collagen.”
- Boost collagen, the protein that keeps skin firm
- Help repair wounds (again by boosting collagen)
- Have anti-inflammatory properties that calm down redness and irritation
- Hydrate skin, leaving it softer and smoother
- Have antioxidant properties to prevent wrinkles
This isn’t an absolute must-have. But if you feel your skin needs the extra help, now’s the time to add them in.
BEST PICKS:
- Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream ($68.00): This cream contains every peptide you can think of. Its lightweight texture absorbs quickly, moisturises deeply, and plumps up fine lines and wrinkles, so they look smaller. Available at Cult Beauty, Sephora and SpaceNK
- NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum 3:1 (£38.00): Unlike the old versions of this serums, you don’t have to mix it yourself. It works out of the box and keeps skin in a constant state of repair, making sure everything works as it should. The result? Your best skin day, every day. Available at Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, Niod, and SpaceNK
- The Ordinary Buffet + Copper Peptides 1% (£28.90): An affordable serum that contains every peptide you can think of. It doesn’t work as well as the other products in this list, but if you’re on a budget, it’ll do. Available at Beauty Bay, Boots, Cult Beauty, Sephora, The Ordinary, and Ulta
Related: The Complete Guide To Glycolic Acid: What It Is, What It Does & How To Use It
Best Serums For Your 50+ And Over: Skin-Brighteners
Wrinkles, sagging, dark spots… Your skin is starting to show big signs of damage. You still need all the goodies that served you well before. Antioxidants. Retinoids. Glycolic acid. Peptides.
But now, it’s time to bring out the big guns to treat dark spots. That usually means hydroquinone, the most powerful skin lightener out there. Problem is, it’s a bit harsh and can cause a bluish discolouration in darker skin tones. Thankfully, this is rare, but why take the risks when there are so many gentler alternatives?
The most popular alternatives are Arbutin and Azelaic Acid. Just like hydroquinone, they reduce the amount of melanin your skin produces, so dark spots can fade away on their own, but are gentler on the skin. Azelaic Acid is well tolerated by people with sensitive skin.
BEST PICKS:
- Facetheory Lumizela A15 Serum (£24.99): This azelaic acid serum is enriched with skin-soothers like green tea and oatmeal to reduce dark spots, redness, rosacea, and irritations. Available at Facetheory
- Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster ($36.00): This booster contains both azelaic acid and salicylic acid, an oil-soluble exfoliant that can get inside your pores and unclog them from within. Great at treating acne, you can use it on its own or mix it with your moisturiser. Available at Cult Beauty, Paula’s Choice, Sephora, and SpaceNK
- The Ordinary Alpha Auburn 2% + HA ($11.50): A no-frills Alpha Arbutin serum with hyaluronic acid to plump up skin while fading away dark spots. Available at Beauty Bay, Boots, Cult Beauty, Look Fantastic, Sephora, SpaceNK, The Ordinary, and Ulta
The Bottom Line
There you have it, how to choose the best serum for your age. You should never choose a serum just based on your age. But if you’re in this age bracket and you skin starts to experience these issues, you now know what are the best serums to deal with them.
I wish my skin was well hydrated but even in my 20-s, there is a lot damage to fix:( I do love vitamin C serums and definitely can see the difference when using them:)
Helena, I love them too. They do wonders for the skin!
What’s your opinion, Gio, of hydroquinone? Lately in the US, it has fallen out of favor. What have you been hearing?
Allison, hydroquinone is one of the most effective skin.lighteners available today. Unfortunately, like a lot of good ingredients, it has gained a largely undeserved bad reputation. It’s true it can cause irritations in some people, but rumours it causes cancer are false. You can check out my post on hydroquinone for more information: http://beautifulwithbrains.com/2013/10/15/spotlight-on-hydroquinone/ 🙂
I agree that there is no worry with hydroquinone! I am not getting much improvement with over the counter products (Up to 4%) and yes I use sunscreen. Is prescription the way to go? Do you know if it is very expensive? (Canada).
Maureen, if over the counter doesn’t work, prescription is definitely something to consider. Unfortunately, I have no idea how much that would cost in Canada, sorry.
This is great, Gio! I’ve been wondering lately if I’m using the best serum for my age (42). This really helps me research a good one.
I have a question about acids in skin care (AHAs, BHAs, etc.). Some beauty bloggers seem to be of the opinion that, while they work beautifully at first, they can thin the skin over time and thus should be avoided. What’s your take on this?
Laurie, I’m glad you find it helpful. 🙂
I don’t think these acids should be avoided, just used in moderation or they can irritate skin. AHAs do thin the epidermis, the outermost layer of the skin. After all, they remove the layers of dead cells that are accumulating on the surface of the skin. But use of Glycolic Acid increases the overall thickness of the skin because it boosts collagen production . But with lactic acid, there is no change in dermal thickness. If you’re curious to know more, check out this post at Futurederm: https://www.futurederm.com/2007/10/08/spotlight-on-alpha-hydroxy-acids/
Great. Thanks so much!
My pleasure! 🙂
very informative 🙂 Thanks for suggesting options dear 🙂
Anubhuti, you’re welcome. I’m glad you found it useful. 🙂
May have to go for the 30’s reccomendations, even in my 20’s I’m starting to get wrinkles at the corners of my eyes 🙁
Katie, it’s annoying, isn’t it? Definitely start using retinoids then. 🙂
i am mid thirties and after having pallid dull lifeless skin my life i found serums and have fallen madly in love with them. where have they been all my life!
thanks for this article to give better direction about serums!
i have serums of hyaluronic acid, vitamin c, niacyanamide, and a cerum that has vitamin c with e complex, i also have a herbal serum that i like it , it has wild daisy flower and white tea extracts.
after reading about your reasearch on copper peptides i really really want a serum of those kind, but they are soooooo out of my league right now.
Julina, copper peptides can be so expensive! But you’re doing so well already. Hyaluronic acid, vitamins c and e, and niacinamide are all wonderful ingredients that will help you achieve clear and glowing skin. And it’s great that you’re getting your fix in serum form, as they’re more powerful that way.
So happy to have found you! Haven’t finished reading everything but I’m hooked. I’d like to ask for some guidance. I’m 40 have and due to my sun avoidance, genes, no smoking /alcohol I’m only now getting a laugh line (just one) on my left side. I think from sleeping on that side. No fine lines anywhere else but a couple of milia seeds. I’ve never had a skin care routine and now clearly I need to exfoliate. Is it ok for me to start with retinoids and aha’s all at once?
Mami, first of all, well done! A healthy lifestyle does pay off, doesn’t it?
That depends. Some people can start such a heavy duty regime all at once without their skin complaining, others end up with irritations. You really won’t know until you try it. To stay on the safe side, I’d recommend you work them in slowly. Maybe you can start using retinol twice a week and AHAs once a week and build up frequency gradually?
I know in this article you said peptide serum is best for 40-somethings. I’m in mid-20s but I have sensitive skin so most retinols and vitamin C suspensions scare me because of the tingling etc. Do you think peptide serum will be good for someone with sensitive skin?
Audrey, peptides are usually fine for sensitive skin. My only concern is that the verdict’s still out there on whether they work or not. Some critics say they’re too big to penetrate the skin while others think they work even when left on the surface. I’m inclined to believe the second thesis but peptides are expensive. That’s why I recommend getting a serum with antioxidants AND peptides. Paula’s Choice makes some great antioxidant serums that anyone can use. Have you checked those out?
So glad to hear that it’s okay for sensitive skin. I also read that they are quite new and therefore do not have a lot of proofs that they work (or not). I agree that most of the times they are very expensive ($100ish or more), so I’m just gonna try The Ordinary’s $15 Buffet Serum, I’m pretty sure you have heard of its Matrixyl 3000 & Syn-Ake. What do you think about their Buffet product in term of ingredient?
I have looked at Paula’s Choice serums but unfortantely haven’t been able to find a supplier for Paula’s Choice products here in Indonesia, I’m still trying to find one 🙂
If you’re looking for a peptide serum, it’s a good option to try. It’s chock full with them and so cheap. I also like that it has plenty of hyaluronic acid, so it should be able to hydrate your skin as well.
Thank you for such an informative blog. I have a 10 year old granddaughter who is starting to get spots on her forehead. I would like to help her as I suffered from acne in my teenage years. What cleansers would you recommend and should she use any serums or moisturisers. Hope you can help.
Thanks
Lynnette, I’m sorry to hear your granddaughter is suffering from spots already. I’d recommend she uses an exfoliant with salicylic acid (also called BHA) once a day. That should help.