What’s the best treatments for dark spots on the face (or anywhere else, really)?
Hydroquinone is the gold standard your derm recommends for dark spots, melasma and all kinds of hyperpigmentation. But, no one wants to use it anymore.
It’s got its fair share of blame, though. It’s harsh like hell. It’ll take your dark spots away and leave you with irritated skin (no, not cancer – that’s just a rumour).
No wonder we’re all looking for alternatives! There are aplenty. From retinoids to azelaic acid and arbutin, these days we’re spoiled for choice.
But, how to pick the right one for you? Here’s the lowdown on the most common skin-lighteners used in skincare and how they compare to hydroquinone, so you can choose the best treatment for dark spots for your unique skin type and needs:
What Causes Dark Spots On The Face?
Dark spots on your face (or anywhere else, really) are the result of an overproduction of melanin. This can happen for several reasons:
- Hormonal changes: Changes in hormones, especially during pregnancy, can cause Melasma.
- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation: Skin injuries, acne, psoriasis, and eczema are all inflammatory conditions that can increase pigment in the skin and lead to dark spots. The most common type is the discolourations pimples sometime leave behind after they heal.
- Medication side effects: Chemotherapy drugs, antimalarials, anticonvulsants, and even some anti-inflammatory drugs can all lead to dark spots.
- Sun damage: UV rays generate free radicals that cause inflammation that increasing the production of melanin, leading to dark spots. These dark spots form years afterwards, usually from your 40s. The more unprotected sun exposure you get, the sooner these darks pots form.
How To Treat Dark Spots
Now you know what causes dark spots on your face and body, let’s talk treatments. There are a gazillion treatments for dark spots – and they all involve reducing the production of melanin.
Melanin is the pigment that gives your skin its beautiful, natural colour. But when some cells go into overdrive and produce more melanin compare to its neighbours, you get a dark spot here and there. You want a treatment that reduces the overdrive and lets your cells produce their normal amount of melanin.
Which treatments work best? Here’s the catch: everyone’s skin is different, so you won’t know what works best for you until you try it. I have clients who love Azelaic Acid and others who swear by Alpha Arbutin. For some, just Glycolic Acid or a high concentration of Vitamin C is enough.
My goal is to introduce you to the most common, best treatments for dark spots, so you can pick the one that’ll suit you best. Clear? Good.
How Long Does It Take A Dark Spot Treatment To Work?
It’s one thing to say to try another treatment for dark spots if the one you picked isn’t working. But how do you know it’s not working? If you only give it a few days, you may be throwing away a gem. Yep, it takes more than a few days to fade away dark spots.
As a rule, you need to wait at least 30 days to see some results. Let’s be clear. Your dark spots won’t completely fade away in 30 days. But they should be lighter. If they’re not, or if the improvement is minimal, it’s time to try another dark spot treatment.
Best Treatment For Dark Spots
These are the most common treatments for dark spots available OTC today – in no particular order.
1. Hydroquinone
WHAT IT IS
Hydroquinone is a skin-lightener that occurs naturally in fruits, coffee and beer. It’s considered the gold standard for getting rid of any dark patches on the skin (hyperpigmentation).
HOW IT WORKS
Hydroquinone inhibits the activity of tyrosinase (the enzyme that controls the synthesis of melanin) and increases the cytotoxicity of melanocytes (cells that produce melanin). In plain English, it stops your skin from producing too much melanin, so your dark spots can fade away and your skin can return to its natural colour.
Hydroquinone is used in 2% in OTC products. In prescription products used under your derm’s supervision, the maximum concentration is 4%.
SIDE EFFECTS
Don’t let internet trolls and the natural brigade scare you. There’s no proof hydroquinone causes cancer. It’s true a study found it can cause cancer in mice. BUT, as Dr Levitt points out in his “The safety of hydroquinone: A dermatologist’s response to the 2006 Federal Register“, hydroquinone increases benign liver tumours in mice but it DECREASES cancerous liver tumours. This suggests that hydroquinone may actually have a protective effect! But in humans? Nah. No proof yet.
Yet, hydroquinone isn’t without side effects. It can cause irritation and, in rare cases, ochronosis (gives skin a bluish tint). Ochronosis is very rare, but more common in people with dark skin.
BEST FOR
Anyone with severe hyperpigmentation (if you have dark skin consult a doctor, first). If you’ve tried everything with no results and you have fair skin, it’s worth a go.
BEST PICKS
- Obagi Nu-Derm Clear Dark Spot Lightener & Corrector Cream: A 4% hydroquinone cream with Vitamin C to lighten dark spots. It’s available by prescription only. Available at Obagi.
Related: Spotlight on Hydroquinone
Struggling to put together a skincare routine that minimises wrinkles, prevents premature aging, and gives your complexion a youthful glow? Download your FREE “Best Anti-Aging Skincare Routine” to get started (it features product recommendations + right application order):
2. Kojic Acid
WHAT IT IS
Kojic Acid is made by bacteria during the fermentation process of rice in the manufacture of sake, the Japanese rice wine.
HOW IT WORKS
Kojic Acid inhibits the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme that’s responsible for the production of melanin. It basically tells it to stop the overproduction of melanin, so dark spots can fade away faster.
It’s effective at 1-4%, but it’s often used with other skin lighteners, such as retinoids, glycolic acid or hydroquinone.
SIDE EFFECTS
It’s less irritating than hydroquinone, but can still cause irritations and allergies. Do a patch test first.
BEST FOR
Anyone with moderate to severe hyperpigmentation who can’t tolerate hydroquinone but doesn’t have sensitive skin.
BEST PICKS:
- Neostrata Dark Spot Corrector ($30.00): This dark spot corrector is loaded with skin-lightening ingredients, from Kojic Acid to Vitamin C and glycolic acid (more on them below). Available at Dermstore and Neostrata.
Related: Should You Use Hydroquinone Or Kojic Acid?
3. Arbutin
WHAT IT IS
Arbutin is an extract derived from bearberry leaves. It’s nicknamed “natural hydroquinone” because it has a very similar chemical structure to it. Alpha Arbutin is the most common form found in skincare products.
HOW IT WORKS
Arbutin turns into hydroquinone in the body, inhibiting the production of tyrosinase and interfering with the maturation of melanosomes (organelles involved in melanin production). It basically addresses two of the main causes of dark spots, helping them fade away faster. It’s usually found in skincare products at 2% concentrations, but it’s most effective at 5%.
SIDE EFFECTS
High concentrations can cause post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Proof that more isn’t always better when it comes to your skin.
BEST FOR
Anyone looking for the benefits of hydroquinone in a less irritating, more natural form.
Best picks:
- Good Molecules Daily Brightening Serum ($8.00): A simple serum with Arbutin and Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and reduce discolourations. Available at Ulta.
- The Ordinary Alpha Auburn 2% + HA ($11.50): A no-frills Alpha Arbutin serum with hyaluronic acid to plump up skin while fading away dark spots. Available at Beauty Bay, Boots, Cult Beauty, Look Fantastic, Sephora, SpaceNK, The Ordinary, and Ulta
4. Azelaic Acid
WHAT IT IS
A skin-lightener produced by a fungus, Pityrosporum Ovale. When it infects humans, it lightens patches of skin.
HOW IT WORKS
It inhibits the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme essential to the production of melanin, so it produces less. It also kills abnormal melanocytes, the cells that got so damaged, they produce way more melanin than needed.
15-20% Azelaic Acid is as effective at 4% hydroquinone (but a lot gentler!). Most products on the market only have around 10%. It’s smaller, but enough to see results.
SIDE EFFECTS
Azelaic Acid is one of the gentlest skin-lighteners available, but can sting and cause redness in people with very sensitive skin.
BEST FOR
Anyone with moderate to severe hyperpigmentation who’s looking for a gentler alternative to hydroquinone. It’s suitable for sensitive skin, too.
BEST PICKS:
- Facetheory Lumizela A15 Serum (£24.99): This azelaic acid serum is enriched with skin-soothers like green tea and oatmeal to reduce dark spots, redness, rosacea, and irritations. Available at Facetheory
- Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster ($36.00): This booster contains both azelaic acid and salicylic acid, an oil-soluble exfoliant that can get inside your pores and unclog them from within. Great at treating acne, you can use it on its own or mix it with your moisturiser. Available at Cult Beauty, Paula’s Choice, Sephora, and SpaceNK
- The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% (£5.50): This serum has a thick texture that’s not the most pleasant to use. But if you’re on a strict budget and want to try azelaic acid, it’ll do the anti-acne and skin-brightening jobs. Available at Beauty Bay, Boots, Cult Beauty, Look Fantastic, SpaceNK, The Ordinary, and Ulta
5. Niacinamide
WHAT IT IS
Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 (also nicknamed nicotinamide) naturally found in many plants.
HOW IT WORKS
When it comes to treating dark spots, niacinamide inhibits the transfer of pigment to the skin, so dark spots can’t form. At 4-5% concentrations, it’s a good alternative to hydroquinone. It is often used together with other skin-lighteners.
Niacinamide alone won’t fade your dark spots away very quickly, but this is one skin-lighteners you can use together with Azelaic acid, Arbutin, or kojic acid without side effects. Plus, it does a lot of other things for your skin. It moisturises dry skin, treats acne, soothes irritations, and helps fight wrinkles.
I don’t currently have dark spots, but niacinamide is a must in my skincare routine.
SIDE EFFECTS
In rare cases, niacinamide causes flushing. If that’s you, stop using it. Everyone else, you can use it safely.
BEST FOR
Anyone with moderate hyperpigmentation looking for a gentler alternative to hydroquinone. But honestly, unless it makes you flush, you need this in your skincare routine.
Best picks:
- Paula’s Choice Resist 10% Niacinamide Booster ($42.00): It shrinks your pores, hydrates your skin, and brightens the complexion. Plus, it’s full of antioxidants (including Vitamin C) to help you keep those pesky premature wrinkles at bay, too. Available at Cult Beauty, Dermstore, Paula’s Choice, Sephora, and SpaceNK
- The Inkey List Niacinamide ($6.99): On top of hydrating niacinamide, it also has hyaluronic acid to add moisture back into the skin and Squalane to strengthen its protective barrier. Plus, it brightens skin and helps prevent wrinkles. Available at Boots, Cult Beauty, The Inkey List
- The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% (£5.00): Suitable only for oily skin, it reduces excess oil, helps treat acne, and reduces redness and inflammation. Available at Beauty Bay, Boots, Cult Beauty, Sephora, SpaceNK, The Ordinary, and Ulta
Related: Spotlight On Niacinamide
6. Retinoids
WHAT IT IS
Retinoids are forms of vitamin A that can treat hyperpigmentation, wrinkles and acne. OTC examples include retinol and retinaldehyde while prescription forms include tretinoin, isotretinoin and adapalene.
HOW IT WORKS:
Retinoids are multitaskers that fade away dark spots in three different ways. They speed up cellular turnover (the skin’s natural exfoliating process), reduce the amount of tyrosinase the skin produces and interfere with the transfer of melanin to the skin.
How much you need depends on the type of retinoid. Tretinoin, for example, works at 0.05-01.%; Adapalene at 0.1-0.3% and retinol at 4%. They work faster when used with other skin-lighteners. If you use them alone, it can take a few months to see a small improvement.
Retinoids also fight wrinkles and reduce acne. Unless you have sensitive skin, I do recommend you use them in your skincare routine together with another skin-lightener.
SIDE EFFECTS
All retinoids can cause stinging, redness, irritation and dryness. The stronger the form of retinol, the worse the side effects (that’s why some forms are available only by prescription).
BEST FOR
Anyone (bar those with sensitive skin) looking for a treatment for both hyperpigmentation and wrinkles.
BEST PICKS
- MaeLove Moonlight Retinal Super Serum ($39.95): This retinal serum has a niacinamide + ceramide base to counteract the potential dryness and irritation from retinaldehyde. It also has fragrant oils that could irritate sensitive skin. But if your skin doesn’t react badly to them, it’s an effective and affordable option to consider. Available at MaeLove.
- Skinceuticals Retinol 0.3 Night Cream ($62.00): This cream contains only 0.3% retinol but it packs an anti-aging punch. It comes in a moisturising base, but you need to use a separate moisturiser to counteract the dryness of retinol. Available at Dermstore and Skinceuticals.
- Paula’s Choice 1% Retinol Booster ($52.00): This high-strength 1% retinol booster has a moisturising base and plenty of skin-soothers to counteract the irritating effects of retinol. Use it on its own for maximum effect or dilute it with moisturiser if it’s too harsh for you. Available at Cult Beauty, Net-A-Porter, Paula’s Choice and SpaceNK.
Related: Three Reasons Why You Should Use Retinoids
7. Vitamin C
WHAT IT IS
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant found in many fruits and vegetables, including oranges, lemon and strawberries. L-Ascorbic Acid, the pure form, is the most effective, but the most unstable (i.e., it loses its antioxidant and skin-lightening powers quickly).
L-Ascorbic Acid is the form of Vitamin C I recommend you use for lightening dark spots. Brands will tell you that derivatives, like Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate or 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid work just as well – but I haven’t seen independent proof of that yet.
HOW IT WORKS:
Vitamin C fights the free radicals that cause darkening of the skin. Through the same mechanism, it also prevents premature wrinkles and helps enhance the effectiveness of your sunscreen. Unless you have sensitive skin, this is another active you want in your skincare routine – even if you don’t have dark spots yet.
L-Ascorbic Acid works at 5% concentrations but I recommend at least 15% for lightening dark spots. Magnesium Ascorbic Phosphate, a derivative of vitamin C is effective at 10%. Both are less effective than hydroquinone (but gentler).
SIDE EFFECTS
It’s one of the mildest skin lighteners, but L-Ascorbic Acid can still irritate sensitive skin in high concentrations (15%+).
BEST FOR
L-Ascorbic Acid is best for those concerned by mild pigmentation and wrinkle-prevention.
BEST PICKS
- MaeLove Glow Booster ($27.95): The cheapest Vitamin C serum in this list, it does everything the others do, but it contains a citrus extract that may be irritating for sensitive skin. Available at Maelove.
- Paula’s Choice C15 Booster ($46.75): It’s enriched with Hyaluronic Acid and glycerin to deeply hydrate skin. Available at Cult Beauty, Dermstore, Net-A-Porter, Paula’s Choice, Sephora, and SpaceNK.
- Skinceuticals CE Ferulic ($169.00): The original Vitamin C serum, it costs an arm and a leg, but it works wonders and delivers what it promises. Available at Dermstore and Skinceuticals.
Related: Spotlight On Vitamin C In Skincare
8. Glycolic Acid
WHAT IT IS
A member of the exfoliating Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) family, glycolic acid is derived from sugar cane. It’s the smallest members of this family, so it can penetrate skin and give you results faster.
HOW IT WORKS:
Glycolic acid speeds up cellular turnover. In plain English, it means it accelerates the skin’s natural exfoliating process so that the uppermost, most-damaged, darkest dead cells give way to the newer, lighter ones underneath. Plus, it disperses basal layer melanin.
Glycolic Acid works at 5-10% contraptions in OTC products; 20% and higher in peels. OTC concentrations work best when combined with other-skin lighteners. Peels work better and faster, but they should be administered by dermatologists.
SIDE EFFECTS
It depends on the concentration. The higher it is, the more irritating it gets (that’s why you should never do peels at home!). Side effects include peeling, redness, and dryness.
BEST FOR
Mild to moderate hyperpigmentation.
BEST FOR
- Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum ($90.00): This exfoliant contains two exfoliants. Glycolic Acid to fade away dark spots and Salicylic Acid to unclog pores. Available at Cult Beauty, Sephora and SpaceNK
- Paula’s Choice Resist Daily Smoothing Treatment with 5% AHA ($33.00): A wonderful low strength Glycolic Acid exfoliant that makes skin softer, smoother, and brighter. Available at Paula’s Choice and Selfridges
- The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution (£6.80): A gentle, no-frills Glycolic Acid exfoliant for people on a budget. Available at Beauty Bay and Cult Beauty
Related: The Complete Guide To Glycolic Acid
9. Licorice Extract
WHAT IT IS
Licorice extract is an extract derived from the Glycyrrhiza Glabra plant (I know it’s a crazy name, but that’s what you’ll see on ingredient lists).
HOW IT WORKS
Licorice extract contains glabridin, which inhibits tyrosinase and prevents UVB-induced pigmentation, and liquiritin, which disperses and removes melanin.
Studies were done at 10% and higher concentrations. Skincare products contain A LOT less! Usually around 1%. That’s not going to do much *sighs* That’s why it’s best to use them with other skin-lighteners.
SIDE EFFECTS
It’s one of the mildest skin-lighteners. Unless you’re allergic to it, it’s safe to use.
BEST FOR
Sensitive skin with mild to moderate hyperpigmentation.
BEST PICKS:
- Neostrata Dark Spot Corrector ($30.00): A powerful exfoliant with 1% Kojic Acid, Ascorbic Acid (Pure Vitamin C), and Licorice Root Extract to brighten skin and fade away dark spots. It’s best suitable for dry skin. Available at Dermstore and Look Fantastic.
- Drunk Elephant C-Firma Day Serum ($80.00): This powerful Vitamin C serum includes a bunch of antioxidants, including licorice extract, to fight wrinkles and brighten the complexion. Available at Boots, Cult Beauty, Sephora, SpaceNK, and Ulta.
- Paula’s Choice Calm Redness Relief Serum ($34.00): A soothing serum with every anti-inflammatory ingredient you can think of. Ideal for sensitive skin that gets easily irritated. Available at Cult Beauty, Paula’s Choice, Sephora, SpaceNK.
Related: Three Reasons Why You Should Use Licorice For Brighter And Younger Skin
10. Mequinol
WHAT IT IS
Mequinol is a derivative of hydroquinone. It’s also called hydroquinone monomethyl ether and p-hydroxyanisole.
HOW IT WORKS
Mequinol seems to work like hydroquinone, by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase and increasing the cytotoxicity of melanocytes.
It’s effective at 2% concentrations and often used with 0.01% tretinoin. It’s as effective as hydroquinone.
SIDE EFFECTS
It’s less harsh than hydroquinone, but can still cause irritations in some people. In some cases, it can cause temporary postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.
BEST FOR
Those with severe hyperpigmentation looking for an alternative to hydroquinone.
BEST PICKS
Prescription only. Talk to your dermatologist about using it.
The Verdict: What’s The Best Dark Spots Treatment?
The best dark spots treatment is the one that works best for you. What works for you may not work for someone else, so don’t be scared to try different options and see what works best for you. But here’s a quick recap.
If you have mild or new dark spots, use Vitamin C in the morning, retinol every other nights, and niacinamide in your moisturiser. If you have dry skin, you can alternate glycolic acid with retinol at night.
If you have moderate or old dark spots that don’t respond well to this mid routine, you can add either Azelaic acid or Alpha Arbutin to your routine.
As for the other dark spots treatments on this list, I recommend them only when the above doesn’t work.
Thank you for such an informative and easy to understand post. Age spots are the bane of my life and my ageing skin is getting dull and losing its elasticity; hence, lately I have been looking for products to deal with these issues. Right now, for age spots, I am alternating an AHA lotion and a retinol essence (both from a Japanese brand called Tunemakers) – both I use at night. I also use an arbutin face cream (from Oliv’ Bio) nightly. During the day, I do not go out of the house without sun protection.
Hydroquinone is banned in beauty/cosmetic products in Japan.
Thank you for an informative and easy-to-understand article. As I age, I am concerned with age spots on my face and the lack or decline of skin elasticity. Hence, these days I look for products that address these issues. Right now, I’m alternating an AHA lotion and a retinol essence (both by a Japanese brand called Tunemakers) at night. I also use an arbutin face cream (Oliv’ Bio) nightly. During the day, I do not leave the house without sunblock.
I don’t know if you are aware of this but hydroquinone is prohibited in beauty/cosmetic products in Japan.
JD, I knew that hydroquinone was banned in some countries, but in small concentrations and under supervision, it shouldn’t do any harm. Politicians aren’t scientists and they don’t always make decisions based on scientific studies. Having said that, there are many alternatives to hydroquinone these days that work very well too.
hey Jia Is it true that mequinol is permanent? And is it safe? Thx
Hippo, yes, mequinol is safe. But dark spots are caused by many things. Mequinol can help fade those you have but if you go out in the sun without sunscreen, get pregnant or use some medications that can cause hyperpigmentation then dark spots can come back.
Love this article. Right now my nighttime routine is alternating between NeoStrata Secure White and The Ordinary 7% Glycolic and I’ve seen some improvement in the last couple months, but my melasma is still hanging around. Will definitely look into these items! Thank you!
Marissa, unfortunately melanoma takes a long time to go away. 🙁 Hydroquinone is the one that works the fastest but definitely experiment to see which treatment your skin reacts best to.
Arbutin: “Concentration: it’s effective at 5%.”
Does that mean anything under 5% would be ineffective?
AG, potentially yes. The studies I’ve found used arbutus at 5% concentrations or higher. Lower concentrations may not work as well.
Hi Gio. Wonderful article, as always. Can you use 2% otc hydroquinone and TO alpha arbutin layered the same night? Thanks, dear!
Chinitapr, I wouldn’t. Just choose one exfoliants and stick to it. I understand you want to get rid of the hyper pigmentation fast but doing too much too soon can cause more problems than it fixes.
Hi gio,it was an excellent article but I want to know a safe alternative to hydroquinone for my post inflammatory pigmentation? I am currently using a 12% Glycolic acid daily for a week and it has shown little to no improvement (I know 1 week is too less a time for the poor GA but I need an alternative in case it doesn’t work even after a month).
Is kojic acid as effective as hydroquinone?what percentage should be used?And IS KOJIC ACID SAFE?
Ajay, kojic is safe but less effective than hydroquinone. I’d personally look into azelaic acid first.
What is the strongest and best alternative if u can’t use Hydroquinone based on the list of products you listed? Are they in order of effectiveness?
Rebecca, no, they aren’t in order of effectiveness. That’s cos different skin types react differently to different ingredients so it’s hard to put them in order.
Niacinamide, vitamin C, retinoids and glycolic acid are the mildest alternatives. If the discolouration is just beginning to appear, this is what I suggest as first line of treatment. Everything else is more heavy duty for those who need the extra help. But you’d have to experiment to find out what works best for you.
5% arbutin is safe or causes any side effects on long term use on face.
Bhime, unless you have an allergy to it, it’s safe.
My dermatologist has me using Obaji (hydroquinone) for my age spots. I tolerate it just fine. I was going to ask her about using arbutin instead because I saw there are countries that ban hydroquinone, but your info seems to point to it being okay if tolerated well. In your opinion is there any good reason to change to arbutin if I do well with hydroquinone?
Myra, there’s evidence that hydroquinone works better in 4 months cycles, i.e. 4 months on hydroquinone, 4 months on something else (like arbutin) then back to hydroquinone for 4 months. In this case, the switch makes sense. But I wouldn’t switch permanently.
Dear Gio, thank you for this amazing post. I’m a Asian with medium-brown skin tone. I do not have hyperpigmentation but I’ve always wished to achieve a fairer skin tone (1-2 shades lighter). Which skin lighteners should I go for? My skin type is dry and matured. Thank you, Gio.
Tan, I do understand that in your culture, fair skin is the idea. But skin-lighteners are for people with hyperpigmentation. They can’t be used to achieve a fairer (1-2 shades lighter) skin tone. Products that promise you that are often full of toxic chemicals so please don’t fall for them.
Hi Gio.
First off, respect to you for making the science behind beauty products so accessible.
Second, a request. Can you recommend additional hydroquinone products, as the two you mention in various posts are no longer available in the UK.
Thanks!
Yem, thanks so much for your support.
Unfortunately, I believe that hydroquinone in the UK is prescription only. 🙁
Hello Gio – Great info! I would like to lighten a cafe au lait birthmark on my face. I have been told it is very risky for me to do laser treatments because of having brown skin. The doctors say that the lasers might darken the birthmark. So I have decided to lighten it as much as possible but I would like to do so without using hydroquinone. I have used hyrdoquinone in the past and it worked fine but once I stopped the birthmark got darker. Which alternative to hydroquinone can I use long-term to lighten the birthmark and keep it from getting darker?
Ann, I don’t really recommend lightening birthmarks because they’re not flaws and there’s nothing wrong with them. Why mess with your skin when you don’t have to?
Hello Gio, your post has amazing info!!
I would like to know can retinol burn your skin??
I suffer from PIH/melasma so I started using retinol once a week and increased to twice a week. Initially the skin looked good but after a month’s use my skin got darker than before even after religiously using sunscreen every single day.
Does it mean that retinol is not for me? What would you suggest to use?
Taj, mmm that should not have happened. Did you reapply sunscreen regularly during the day? If so, then it may be better to switch to another form of vitamin A, like retinaldehyde and see if your skin likes that more.
hi Gio.. quick question.
this past january I did a 35% TCA peel, which left me with scars and brown spots. Is Mequinol 10% ok to use? (leucodinine -M). I hope it won’t cause permanent scarring or depigmentation. (i’m so overreacting now, but I can’t help it. I used to have a beautiful skin, and now it’s all botched.) Do you think it’ safe to use mequinol 10%?
Brenda, oh no, so sorry to hear that! I believe Mequinol 10% is prescription only? your doctor will be able to tell you how to use it to avoid side effects.
hi Gio, thank you for the information! I have been using HQ to treat some dark spots for a month now (I use Paula’s Choice triple-action dark spot eraser, apply it one time at night, SPF/avoid sunlight during the day), but actually noticed that my dark spots seemed to get a little bit darker. I am Asian with light skin, and wasn’t using it for a very long time, so I don’t think it is Ochronosis. I read in some places that dark spots may get darker before they fade, because melanin was pushed to the surface of the skin and made it more noticeable. I wonder if you think this theory is correct? Also, can I use HQ with niacinimaide? I feel that If HQ is pushing melanin to the surface of the skin, and niacinimaide works by inhibiting the transfer of pigment to the skin, the two seem to cancel each other if using together, just by theory. Am I right on this? Thank you so much!
Pam, it’s more likely that hydroquinone is irritating the skin and that’s what’s making it darker. Try switching to a gentler alternative like arbutin or azelaic acid and see what happens.
hi gio , i can’t download the cheat sheet even on pinterest i can’t zoom it 🙁 i wanted to see it so bad
Jossa, the cheatsheet is only for my email subscribers. You can click on the image in the post above or in the form in the sidebar to subscribe. 🙂
Hi what would you recommend for under eye pigmentation?
Sue, I’d start with gentler treatment like vitamin C and niacinamide. If that doesn’t work, try glycolic acid and retinol. If that doesn’t work either, opt for arbutin. Given how delicate the area is, I think it’s best to start with the gentler treatments and opt for something stronger only if you really need it.
Hi this post was really helpful and informative, thank you for spending so much time on it, but there are so many choices, I don’t know which one to use. I am a teenager and I have pretty oily skin with acne scars, which products or a combination of them would you recommend. My skin is not really that sensative.
Amy, these options are for dark spots/melasma, If you have acne scars, you need to see a dermatologist.
I am using Azelaic acid 20% and tretinoin 0.5 togethar for lighten my skin tone , How many days need to see resul and what is the best way to use those cream ?
Chayon, are these prescription products? If so, you should ask your doctor how to use them for best results. You should start to see a small improvement within a couple of weeks, but it can take months/years to lighten dark spots.
Is Salicylic acid 6% in Glaxal base is helpful to reduce my severe hyperpigmentation?
Syed, glycolic acid is better for hyperpigmentation.
Hi Gio, I love your website anyway.
I have a question, can I combine Retinol + Arbutin? what the best concentration with prescription?
Thanks,
I really appreciate your help ❤️
Leila, yes you can. With retinol, start with the lowest concentration you can find and build up dose gradually. Otherwise, you’ll just dry up your skin and create a new problem.
Thank you so much !! ❤️👏🏻👏🏻
My pleasure!
great post i would like to used hydroquinone 2% and retinol which rerinol over the counter is more effective and can layer with hydroquinone. can be ordinary bran retinol? Thanks
Karla, it’s not which retinol is more effective. It’s which retinol your skin can better tolerate. This post explains how to choose the best retinol for you: https://www.beautifulwithbrains.com/strength-retinol-need/