do lip plumpers work

Do lip plumpers work? If you craving fulls lips a la Angelina Jolie but, like me, the thought of getting injections scares the hell out of you, lip plumpers look like the perfect solution. They make your lips bigger without pain, downtime or hours spent overdrawing your lips.

But… do lip plumpers really work? Do they have what it takes to make your lips bigger or are they just a temporary fix? Let’s find out what Lady science says:

What Are Lip Plumpers?

Lip plumpers are a type of lip product designed to make your lips appear fuller.

Note I said “appear” fuller, not “make” fuller. There’s a difference. Lip plumpers are cosmetic products and cosmetics can only change the look of your lips (or skin), not alter their size.

If they could go that extra mile, they’d be classified as drugs. Those are strictly regulated. Translation: beauty brands need to do a lot of expensive testing to make sure drugs don’t have nasty side effects… like cancer or death.

What does it mean? No matter what fancy claims a brand comes up with, a lip plumper will only give you the illusion of slightly bigger lips.

One more thing: the effects of lip plumpers are only temporary.

Related: What’s The Difference Between A Cosmetic And A Drug?

How Do Lip Plumpers Work?

There are three kinds of lip plumpers – and they all work in a different way:

1. Swelling Lip Plumpers

I call them swelling lip plumpers because they literally make your lips swell up. How?

They use ingredients, like menthol, cinnamon, and camphor, that irritate lips, making them swell up so they look bigger.

These ingredients trigger a mild inflammatory response in the lips, which increases blood flow and causes a temporary plumping effect. This irritation is why you often experience a tingling or even slight burning sensation when applying these products.

THE SCIENCE BEHIND IT

Your lips are very sensitive because the skin here is thinner than the rest of your face and contains fewer sebaceous glands (oil-producing glands). When irritants like menthol are applied, your body responds with vasodilation, which is the widening of blood vessels. This brings more blood to the area, causing the lips to appear redder and slightly swollen.

FYI, that tingling you’re experiencing? That’s your lips being irritated. Ouch!

I do NOT recommend swelling lip balms at all. Irritation is NEVER good news. Chronic irritation can damage the delicate skin barrier on your lips, making them more sensitive to environmental stressors and speeding up premature aging. Scary, huh?

Related: What To Do If A Skincare Product Irritates Your Skin

2. Collagen-Boosting Lip Plumpers

Collagen-boosting lip plumpers do just that: they stimulate collagen production. Here’s how:

These lip plumpers contain ingredients, like peptides, hyaluronic acid, and retinol, that have been proven to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, the proteins that keep skin firm and full.

Collagen is the most abundant protein in the skin, providing structure and volume. As we age, natural collagen production slows down, causing lips to lose volume and definition.

THE SCIENCE BEHIND IT

Ingredients like peptides are short chains of amino acids that signal to your skin cells to boost collagen synthesis. Similarly, retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, works by stimulating cell turnover and encouraging the production of new collagen over time.

But, there’s a catch. Lip plumpers are topical products, and they can’t reach the deeper layers of skin where collagen production happens. There’s nothing wrong with giving these types of lip plumpers a try, if you can afford the splurge. Just don’t expect miracles.

Related: Are Copper Peptides Better Than Retinoids?

3. Moisturising Lip Plumpers

Ah, moisture! That old trick. Let me share the secret with you…

Moisturizing lip plumpers work by hydrating lips. They often contain hyaluronic acid, glycerin, or microspheres that attract water molecules to your lips. The extra moisture plumps up your lips, giving them a fuller and smoother appearance.

THE SCIENCE BEHIND IT

Hyaluronic acid is a humectant that can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water. When applied to the lips, it draws moisture to the skin. It instantly makes lips look bigger.

Another ingredient in moisturising lip plumpers? Microspheres. Often made of ingredients like hyaluronic acid or marine collagen, they expand when they come into contact with water, giving a plumping effect. The hydration smooths fine lines and gives the lips a more youthful, plump look.

Of course, the effect is subtle and temporary. But if you really must try a lip plumper, this is your safest (in every sense!) bet. Plus, well-hydrated lips look healthier and feel softer overall.

Related: 4 Things I’ve Learned From Korean Skincare

Do Lip Plumpers Work?

Yes, lip plumpers work – just not as well as you think. They can make your lips appear a little thicker for a few hours, but they won’t give you the full Angelina Jolie look you’re craving for. Even then, you need to constantly keep reapplying them during the day to maintain the results.

If you’re looking for long-term results, cosmetic treatments like hyaluronic acid fillers (e.g., Juvederm or Restylane) are far more effective. They reach the deeper layers of skin, so the results are immediate and long-lasting. They’re also considerably more expensive!

Are Lip Plumpers Safe?

Lip plumpers are considered safe when used occasionally and as directed. But, they’re not entirely without risks:

  • Irritation: Swelling lip plumpers can cause inflammation, redness, and sensitivity.
  • Allergic Reactions: Some people are allergic to ingredients like cinnamon or menthol. Always patch-test first.
  • Overuse: Repeated irritation can damage the lips’ natural barrier, leading to chronic dryness or sensitivity.

If you have sensitive skin or a history of allergies, stick to moisturizing lip plumpers or consult a dermatologist before use.

What Are The Best Lip Plumpers?

I’m not into lip plumpers. The results are too little for my taste. But if I had to use them, I’d pick the ones below:

  • Dior Lip Maximizer ($40.00/£33.00): Infused with hyaluronic acid for a subtle and hydrating plump. It’s not the most volumising, but it does look lovely on the lips. Available at Boots, Brown Thomas, Nordstrom, and Sephora.
  • Too Faced Lip Injection Extreme Plumping Lip Gloss ($29.00/£24.00): A hydrating lip balm available in 5 different shades. Available at Boots, Cult Beauty, Look Fantastic, Sephora, and Ulta.

The Bottom Line

Lip plumpers can give some short-term fullness to your lips, but they’re far from a permanent solution. If you’re looking for subtle, temporary results, opt for moisturizing lip plumpers with ingredients like hyaluronic acid. For longer-lasting plumpness, professional treatments like dermal fillers remain the gold standard. And remember: irritation isn’t worth it for a little extra volume. Healthy, hydrated lips will always look their best.