How do self-tanners work?

If there’s one beauty product I couldn’t care less about is self-tanner. You see, I don’t tan. My skin’s pale and I love that. Pale skin is awesome. And healthy. And awesome.

But, that doesn’t mean I’m not curious about how self-tanners work. What’s in them that turns your skin into that lovely Oompa-Loompa shade of orange sunkissed brown? Let’s find out:

How Do Self-Tanners Work?

It doesn’t matter how expensive or fancy your self-tanner is. 99% of self-tanners, be they drugstore or high-end, use the same ingredient: dihydroxyacetone (DHA).

DHA is a sugar derived from sugarcane or beets. Although it is colorless, when you apply it to your skin, it reacts with the amino acids present in the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the skin), turning your skin a brownish hue. This process is called the Maillard reaction. The same chemical reaction that browns food when you cook it. (So yes, your skin is essentially “cooking” to get that tan. Gross? Cool? You decide.)

THE EXCEPTION TO THE RULE

Some innovative products, like Hylamide Glow Radiance Booster, are DHA-free. Instead, they use erythrulose. It’s a carbohydrates extracted from red berries that reacts with the amino acids in your skin, turning it a golden brownish hue. It works more slowly than DHA, giving you a more subtle tan.

I personally prefer erythrulose. It’s less drying, doesn’t streak, and gives you a more natural tan. But I know lots of women are frustrated by how slowly it works. It’s your call to figure out if the trade-off is worth it.

P.S. Products with erythrulose are rare. If you pick something off a shelf, it’s more likely to have DHA.

Fun fact: the tan created by DHA or erythrulose is technically not a stain—it’s a temporary pigment caused by the chemical reaction. So, if you’re wondering why scrubbing doesn’t remove that streaky patch entirely, now you know.

Why Do Some Self-Tanners Work Better Than Others?

I know what you’re thinking: “If 99% of self-tanners out there use the same active ingredient, then why some give you a natural tan while others make you look like an Oompa Loompa? Why do some streak like crazy while others apply like a dream? Something doesn’t add up here…”

This is a common mistake I see women make all the time: they focus too much on one ingredient, without taking into consideration how it’s used or how it interacts with the rest of the formula.

It’s All About the DHA Concentration

The result you get depends on the amount of DHA in the product. The higher the amount, the faster you’ll get a tan. But here’s the kicker: if your self-tanner has too much DHA, your skin can take on an orangey tone. Why? Because DHA reacts differently based on your natural skin tone and pH. Fair skin is more prone to turning orange because of how the color develops on lighter tones.

Is there only a sprinkle of DHA in the product? You’ll get a tan… after a few days. It’s a bit frustrating, but the result is a lot more natural.

The ideal spot is somewhere in between—a balanced concentration that works for your skin tone.

Application Matters Too

The formula’s base ingredients (like moisturizers or oils) and how evenly you apply the product also play a huge role in the result. A hydrating formula prevents streaking, while a dry, patchy one can leave you looking blotchy. And, of course, proper prep is key: exfoliating beforehand ensures a smoother application. Think of it as creating a blank canvas for your faux glow.

How Long Does The Tan Last?

A sunless tan doesn’t last long. It usually start to fade after 3 to 5 days. Why? Our skin naturally exfoliates itself. As DHA only darkens the outermost layer of the skin, the tan is shed together with those dead skin cells.

And, if you exfoliate in any way, either with an acid or a scrub, you’ll get rid of the tan more quickly. So, now you know why you have to reapply your self-tanner every 2 or 3 days.

P.S. Using erythrulose? Your tan will fade quicker…Why? Erythrulose reacts more slowly and doesn’t penetrate as deeply into the skin as DHA. That means you’ll need to reapply it more often to maintain your golden glow.

Does A Self-Tanner Has Any Side Effects?

Yes. When it is exposed to the sun, DHA starts producing free radicals like crazy (180% more in the first 24 hours!). Free radicals cause oxidative stress, which breaks down collagen and speeds up the formation of wrinkles. Yikes.

Using a sunscreen with self-tanner is a MUST. I can’t stress this enough. If you use a self-tanner, apply sunscreen before leaving the house. And an antioxidant serum, too. Just in case. It’s better to be safe than sorry, don’t you agree?

Can Self-Tanner Damage Your Skin?

The good news: DHA doesn’t penetrate deeper than the outer layer of the skin. The bad news: Inhaling DHA during spray-tanning sessions may pose risks. Some studies suggest that inhaling DHA particles could potentially damage your lungs, but more research is needed. For now, use precautions like wearing a mask if you’re getting a spray tan.

Tips for a Flawless Tan

1. Prep is key: Exfoliate and moisturize dry areas (knees, elbows, and ankles) before application to avoid uneven patches.
2. Use a mitt: This prevents orange palms and ensures a streak-free application.
3. Don’t shower immediately: Wait at least 6–8 hours for the tan to develop fully.
4. Extend your tan: Use a gradual tanning lotion between applications to maintain the glow.

The Bottom Line

Self-tanners may not be my thing, but I get the appeal. A good faux tan can give you that healthy, sun-kissed glow – without the UV damage. Just remember: a little science, a lot of sunscreen, and some strategic application go a long way.

About Gio

Hi, I'm Gio. I'm a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is skin coach and writer on a mission to help you achieve your best skin day ever - every day. I bust skincare myths and debunk marketing jargon to help you figure out what's worth the splurge and what's best left on the shelf - using science, not hype. I also offer skincare consultations to help you create the best skincare routine for your unique needs.