how depilatory creams work

Ever wondered how depilatory creams work?!

I’m definitely a shaver, but I’ve dabbled in depilatory creams sometimes. As much as I love the ease and convenience of shaving, it’s a chore I have to do every day. Depilatory creams promise to keep my legs hair-free for 4 or 5 days, so, of course, I gave them a try.

Unfortunately, they never worked that well for me. I never seem to get a close shave with them, and, maybe because of that, my hair start growing back the next day. Plus, depilatory creams are more time-consuming – you have to apply them, wait for them to do their thing, and take them off.

So, I went back to shaving. But, I remained curious about them. What is it about them that makes hair fall off? How do depilatory creams work, basically? Let’s investigate:

What Are Depilatory Creams?

Depilatory creams can come in liquid or cream form. Their job is to remove unwanted hair from the body. But, they can only remove hair from the surface of the skin, or just very little below it – not from the hair follicle. That’s why the results last 4 or 5 days at most.

So, if you’re hoping for hair-free legs for weeks, this probably isn’t your best option. That said, they’re a quick fix when you need a smooth surface in a pinch (hello, last-minute plans!).

But what makes them different from other hair removal methods like waxing or epilating? Waxing rips the hair out from the root (ouch), while epilators pluck the hair out strand by strand (double ouch). Depilatory creams? They dissolve the hair instead — no pulling, no ripping. A much less painful, though short-lived, experience.

How Do Depilatory Creams Work?

Depilatory creams are made up of three main groups of ingredients:

THE KEY INGREDIENTS

Depilatory creams contain either calcium or potassium thioglycolate, two chemicals that dissolve the bonds of keratin, the protein hair is made of (of course, keratin can be found even in the skin and nails). When these bonds become loose, hair becomes so soft, it breaks off when you remove the cream from your skin.

But why do these specific chemicals work? Keratin is a tough protein that gives hair its structure, and breaking it down is no small feat. Thioglycolates act as reducing agents, essentially disrupting the keratin structure at a molecular level. Think of it like dismantling a LEGO tower one brick at a time until the structure collapses.

THE HELPER

These creams usually also contain calcium hydroxide, which increases the pH of the formula and helps thioglycolate better penetrate the hair, so the cream can do its job more easily. Sodium hydroxide does the same thing, but it’s used less often because because it’s harsher than calcium hydroxide.

This pH boost is crucial because our skin naturally has a lower pH level (around 4.5–5.5), while hair removal creams often have a much higher pH. The increased alkalinity weakens the hair’s natural defenses, making it easier for the thioglycolates to break through.

THE MOISTURISER

Some of these creams also contain moisturizing ingredients that keep skin stay soft and smooth while the hair is being removed. Even so, any form of hair removal can irritate skin, so it’s always best to apply a moisturizer afterwards.

Ingredients like aloe vera, glycerin, or vitamin E are commonly added to counteract the potential drying effects of the harsher chemicals. These moisturizers don’t just hydrate; they also form a protective barrier, soothing the skin during and after the process.

Are Depilatory Creams Safe for Everyone?

While depilatory creams are widely available and easy to use, they aren’t a one-size-fits-all solution. Here are a few key points to consider:

  • Skin Sensitivity: If your skin is prone to irritation or redness, you may want to proceed with caution.
  • Hair Type: Thick, coarse hair may require stronger formulations, which could increase the risk of irritation.
  • Body Area: The skin on your face is far more delicate than the skin on your legs, so always check whether the product is suitable for the area you’re targeting.

And then there’s the question of how frequently you can use these creams. Overuse can lead to skin sensitivity, so it’s generally recommended to wait 72 hours between applications.

Do Depilatory Creams Have Any Side Effects?

I’m afraid so. Depilatory creams can cause:

  • Allergic reactions
  • Burns
  • Discolourations
  • Irritations

Some of the ingredients in the them can be pretty harsh (I mean, they have to dissolve keratin bonds, so they can’t be too gentle), so they can cause problems, especially if your skin is sensitive.

How to Minimize the Risks

That’s why I recommend you do a patch test first. Try a small amount of the cream on a tiny area, like your wrist. If something nasty happens, and you experience a negative reaction, wash the cream off your skin IMMEDIATELY.

Also, avoid applying the cream on broken, sunburned, or otherwise compromised skin. It’s a recipe for disaster. And don’t leave the cream on longer than the instructions recommend; trust me, it won’t make your hair come off any better, but it might leave your skin red and angry.

FAQs About Depilatory Creams

1. Can depilatory creams cause permanent hair removal?

Nope! Since these creams only remove hair at or just below the surface, your hair will grow back just as it was before. For permanent solutions, you’d need to look into options like laser hair removal or electrolysis.

2. Are depilatory creams safe for sensitive areas?

Some are specifically formulated for sensitive areas like the bikini line or face. However, even these gentler formulas can irritate, so proceed with caution. Always check the label for any irritants and do a patch test first.

3. How long do the results really last?

Usually about 3–5 days, depending on your hair’s growth rate. It’s not as long-lasting as waxing, but it’s quicker and less painful.

4. Why do depilatory creams smell so bad?

It’s the thioglycolates again! Breaking down keratin produces sulfur-containing compounds, which are notorious for their less-than-pleasant odor.

The Bottom Line

Depilatory creams might not be everyone’s cup of tea, but they’re a handy, pain-free option when you’re short on time and need a smooth finish. Just remember to patch-test, follow the instructions, and moisturize like your life depends on it. Happy hair removing!