is ammonium laureth sulfate dangerous

Is Ammonium Laureth Sulfate in skincare dangerous? You’ll usually find it on all the to-avoid skincare ingredients lists, but what did it do to deserve a spot there? Is it as dangerous as people claim or are people making a fuss about nothing again? Let’s investigate what science says:

What Is Ammonium Laureth Sulfate?

Scientific definition: Ammonium Laureth Sulfate is the ammonium salt of sulfated ethoxylated lauryl alcohol.

Plain English: A cleansing agent derived from coconut. The type used in skincare and haircare products is almost always synthetically made in a lab.

You’ll find it mostly in cleansing products like cleansers, shower gels, shampoos, etc. Its effectiveness, affordability, and ability to create that satisfying foamy lather make it a favorite for manufacturers. Plus, it’s relatively milder than harsher sulfates like Sodium Lauryl Sulfate.

P.S. Ammonium Laureth Sulfate is a large molecule, so it can’t penetrate skin.

What Does Ammonium Laureth Sulfate Do In Skincare And Haircare Products?

It’s a cleansing agent. (P.S. If it has Laureth Sulfate or Lauryl Sulfate in the name, it’s almost always a cleansing agent).

Ever tried washing a greasy pan with water alone? It won’t do. The grease stubbornly sticks to the pan, no matter how much you scrub it. Why?

Oil and water don’t mix. Just pour some oil into a glass of water and you’ll see it neatly stays on top. It doesn’t melt into the water at all.

Excess sebum is essentially oil. Your skincare and makeup products contain oil. You need to cleanse them off your face (and the rest of your body). But how?!

Enter surfactants, like Ammonium Laureth Sulfate. It helps water mix with oil and dirt, so they can easily be rinsed away. No harsh scrubbing. No pain. Just clean skin (and hair). Phew!

Bonus Benefit: This sulfate creates that luxurious lather we all associate with a “deep clean.”

Does Ammonium Laureth Sulfate Has Any Side Effects?

Here’s the deal: all surfactants have the potential to be drying. They have to be. They literally remove oils and dirt from your skin. If they were too gentle, they wouldn’t be able to take off anything!

FYI, this is why it’s SO hard to find a sulfate-free shampoo that actually cleans oily hair. They’re too gentle and can’t remove anything unless you use the whole bottle (which totally defeats the purpose).

But you don’t want to use anything that’s even a little more drying than it needs to be. As a rule of thumb, surfactants with laurYL in the name ARE too harsh. Avoid them.

But what about those that have laurETH in the name, like Ammonium Laureth Sulfate? They’re in the perfect spot. They’re powerful enough to cleanse skin AND gentle enough not to dry it out and irritate it. Win win.

Sure, if you have very sensitive skin, there’s always the potential Ammonium Laureth Sulfate is too drying for you. But for 90% of people, it’s totally safe.

P.S. It makes a lot of foam, too!

Are all sulfates the same?

Nope! Ammonium Laureth Sulfate is considered gentler than Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), a harsher sulfate known to strip skin. Do not use SLS!! That’s one that should be on all to-avoid lists.

How can you tell if it’s too drying for you?

If your skin feels tight, itchy, or flaky after cleansing, it might be a sign your cleanser is too harsh. That “squeaky clean” feel? It’s a sign your protective barrier has been compromised. You want cleansers that remove dirt and grime, not cleansers that strip your skincare bare of its natural goodies!

If your cleanser is too drying for you, switch to a product labeled “gentle” or formulated for sensitive skin, as these usually contain milder surfactants.

What Are Some Common Myths About Ammonium Laureth Sulfate?

  1. It’s toxic and unsafe for humans: Not true. Ammonium Laureth Sulfate has been deemed safe for use in cosmetic products by multiple regulatory bodies, including the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel.
  2. It’s the same as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate: Nope! While both are sulfates, Ammonium Laureth Sulfate is much gentler on the skin compared to its cousin.
  3. It causes cancer: This myth stems from misunderstandings about contaminants like 1,4-dioxane. While trace amounts of 1,4-dioxane may sometimes be present, manufacturers must remove them during processing to meet strict safety guidelines.

Who Should Avoid It?

While it’s generally safe for most people, certain skin types may want to steer clear:

  • Very sensitive skin: If your skin reacts to nearly everything, stick to sulfate-free cleansers with ultra-gentle surfactants like Decyl Glucoside.
  • Chronic dryness or eczema: Sulfates may exacerbate these conditions by stripping the skin of moisture.

Related: The Best Cleanser For Sensitive Skin

How Does Ammonium Laureth Sulfate Compare to Other Cleansing Agents?

Ingredient Gentleness Foaming Ability Cleansing Power
Ammonium Laureth Sulfate Moderate High Strong but gentle
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) Harsh High Very strong but drying
Cocamidopropyl Betaine Very gentle Moderate Mild
Decyl Glucoside Ultra gentle Low Mild

The Bottom Line

If you want very sensitive skin that gets irritated easily, you may want to avoid Ammonium Laureth Sulfate in skincare and haircare products. It may be a bit too drying for it. For everyone else, this is a gentle surfactant that cleanses skin and hair without irritation.