I never remove cuticles.
I know they “ruin” an otherwise perfectly polished manicure, BUT, those cuticles are there for a reason. They prevent bacteria and other nasty stuff from entering our nails. Kind of a good reason to keep them there, don’t you agree?
Maybe not. Doesn’t matter. I’m not gonna jump on my soapbox and start preaching against cuticle removers. Instead, I’ll just tell you how cuticle removers work, ok?
But before we dive into that, let’s take a moment to appreciate what cuticles do. They’re not just sitting there to annoy us, They’re tiny bodyguards. Cuticles form a barrier that keeps bacteria, dirt, and other irritants out of that delicate area where your nail meets the skin. This is no small feat. When the cuticle is damaged, it opens the door to infections, and that leads to all kinds of drama, like redness and swelling.
Still, we get it: sometimes you want that super-clean, polished look. Enter cuticle removers. There are two types of cuticle removers. Neither of them is particularly good for the nails, but one is way worse than the other. Let’s take a look:
The Harsh Way To Remove Cuticles
Traditionally, cuticle removers contain Potassium Hydroxide and Sodium Hydroxide.
These two chemicals are very alkaline. In plain English, that means they have a very high pH. Do you know what happens when you put something on your skin that has a very high pH? Hint: it’s NOT pretty.
Here’s a quick science lesson: your skin has a natural pH of around 4.5 to 5.5—slightly acidic. This acidic environment helps protect your skin by keeping harmful bacteria at bay and maintaining a healthy moisture barrier. When you introduce something highly alkaline, like Potassium Hydroxide (which has a pH of around 13), you disrupt that delicate balance. The result? Irritation, dryness, and a weakened skin barrier. Not exactly what you want for your hands.
These chemicals work by breaking down the dead skin around the nails, so that it’s easy to remove with a nail knife or an orange wood stick.
The catch? The high pH is a recipe for irritation and dryness. The more you use them, the worse it gets. If you’re not careful, you could end up with cracked, inflamed skin around your nails. And trust me, that doesn’t just hurt. It makes your nails more prone to infection. So use them sparingly!
Not so fun fact: some cuticle removers with Potassium Hydroxide are so strong they’re actually considered corrosive! Always follow the instructions to the T and never leave them on your skin for too long.
The Mild Way To Remove Cuticles
Recently, brands have been coming out with a gentler type of cuticle remover.
Like facial exfoliants, they use Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), a group of exfoliants derived from fruit and milk sugar. The most famous members of the family are glycolic acid and lactic acid.
I’m sure you’ve heard of them. If not, here’s how they work. They dissolve the glue that holds skin cells together, so they can easily be pushed away.
What makes AHAs gentler? Unlike Potassium Hydroxide, which blasts away at your cuticles like a sledgehammer, AHAs work more like a chisel. They’re designed to soften the dead skin and make it easier to push back without damaging the healthy skin underneath.
But, there’s a catch here, too. Because they’re gentler on the skin, they work more slowly. If you’re used to instant results, you might need to be a little patient. Personally, I think the trade off is worth it.
P.S. AHAs can irritate skin too if you use them too often. Over-exfoliating makes skin too sensitive and prone to redness. Moderation is key here (as in all things skincare). And don’t forget to moisturize afterward!
Related: The Complete Guide To Gycolic Acid In Skincare: What It Is, What It Does, And How To Use It
How To Use Cuticle Removers Safely
If you’ve made it this far (thank you!), you’re probably wondering: how do I use these products without ruining my nails? Great question! Here are some tips:
- Prep Your Nails: Start with clean, dry hands. You can soaking your nails in warm water for a few minutes to help soften the cuticles before you get started. Still, make sure they’re dried before you go to the next step.
- Apply Carefully: Use a small amount of nail cuticle remover and apply it directly to the cuticle area. Make sure it doesn’t touch the surrounding skin (it could irritate it!).
- Follow Instructions: Always, always read the label. Whether you’re using an AHA-based remover or an old-school alkaline formula, leaving it on for too long can do more harm than good.
- Push Gently: Use a wooden orange stick or a cuticle pusher to gently push back the softened cuticles. Don’t scrape or force it (you’ll just tear the skin and cause infections!).
- Moisturize: After removing the cuticle, wash your hands thoroughly to remove any residue, and follow up with a nourishing cuticle oil or hand cream. This helps you moisturise and protect your nails.
Which Type Of Nail Cuticle Remover Is Better?
If you really need to use a nail cuticle remover, make sure it’s the exfoliating kind. AHAs are much gentler on the skin and don’t destroy your nails.
Still, keep in mind that less is more. Your cuticles serve an important purpose, and overdoing it (even with the gentlest products!) can cause more harm than good. If you’re looking for a low-maintenance, nail-friendly alternative, consider simply pushing your cuticles back after a warm shower and skipping the removers altogether.
So, what’s the verdict? Are cuticle removers a friend or a foe? The answer, as with most things in life, is balance. Use them wisely, treat your nails with care, and remember that sometimes, less really is more.
I do use cuticle remover once in a while, lets say once a month, I just push them and cut extras..I do make sure to wash my hands right after 🙂
I’ve always wondered how these work. I haven’t found one that worked well for my cuticles. Is there one that you would recommend Gio?
.-= Dee´s last blog ..S’pore Is Where To Be =-.
I don’t use cuticle remover, they never seem to remove all the gunk and I am not really patient to wait either. I just manual remove it by using a cuticle remover stick and a nipper once in a while.
.-= Dao´s last blog ..Tweety FOTD: My 2009 Halloween Look =-.
I’ve never actually used a cuticle remover myself, but when I get manicures the manicurist always uses one. They sound a little scary, what with the harsh chemicals and all, but I haven’t had any bad experiences. Knock on wood!
.-= Rebecca´s last blog ..October Lust List (and Happy Halloween!) =-.
Nikki, like you, I don’t use them too often and wash hands afterwards. Otherwise, they would irritate and dry even more my already dry hands.
Dee, personally I like Sally Hansen Instant Cuticle Remover. It works well and fast, but it contains Potassium Hydroxide so you have to wash your hands carefully afterwards.
Dao, I know what you mean. It’s hard to find one that works really well. I’m too scared to use a nipper though, looks painful.
Rebecca, the chemicals sound scary, but if don’t use them too often and wash your hands afterwards you’ll be fine and they won’t irritate your skin. And if a professional does it for you, then you’re probably in very good hands, so don’t worry about it 😉
I never ever removed my cuticles. Sometimes I push them with the cuticle spatula (?) and that’s it. My cuticles are naturally nice looking and I don’t want to ruin them. I do apply hand cream over them to make them soft prior to pushing them, but that’s it.
I am lucky to have naturally pretty fingernails and cuticles. On the other hand, my toenails are very small and not so pretty (no fungus infection, fortunately, knock on wood, just toenails with a less pretty shape, naturally very curved and prone to ingrown nails).
Tgz, lucky you! I’m jealous ehehe I wish I had good fingernails and cuticles too but my nails are very fragile and break easily and my cuticles look horrible 🙁